Automobile Inspection Guide - Part 1
Wednesday, May 14th, 2008When we go out looking for a new or used car, the word “tire kicker” often evokes a negative stigma. However, it represents what everyone looking for a new or used car should be doing: an inspection. Once you’ve come up with your initial criteria for a replacement of addition to your current stable of cars, you’ll often want to research the possible choises you have for a variety of things like reliability, economy, usability and other real world metrics. All of the above a very personal things that each person weighs in a way only they can. However, when you actually go to check out the car itself, it’s easier to have a guide that you can run through in a mechanical fashion to make sure the car of your dreams won’t become the car of your nightmares.
This post is the first in a series of posts where I’ll present a new set of criteria as part of an inspection. At the conclusion, I’ll post a complete PDF checklist that every owner should use to see if the car you have your heart set on is, in fact, meat to be. So, onto part 1 of the list: VIN Inspection
1. VIN matches other VIN’s on vehicle and paperwork/Proper attachment (original/no alterations)
2. Vehicle has California emission sticker (California only)
3. Service bulletins and recall updates performed on vehicle
4. Check vehicle for trouble codes
5. Oil Change/Scheduled Maintenance Performed
eBay is infamous for people posting pictures of a valid VIN on a car that looks exactly like the one they are selling, when in fact they have a title that gives a completely different VIN. That clean VIN will show a car with an excellent history and the same features as the car being sold. The sellers count on a lazy user who won’t compare the VIN on the car when they see it in person to the VIN they were given to do a CarFax check with. It’s pretty strait forward, but people can be lazy and not check these things when the high of seeing a new car takes over. Once this is verified, you’ll often be able to check for service recalls. Taking the car to a local mechanic that specializes in the model you’re interested in is another great way to make sure the seller is honest and you’re getting what you’re told you are. Most mechanics will check car error codes for free, for example, and those who do charge will probably do it for less than $50. Should the car you are looking at have a check engine light (CEL), taking it to a mechanic to validate the reason is a MUST. From personal experiance, it’s very easy to buy a running car with “just a CEL on” and end up with a car that has a cracked engine block or head. If you’re lucky enough to find a car that has a complete history of records, check the average mileage between oil changes. Simply changing the oil and filter every 3000-5000 miles will help ensure your car will last years to come without serious internal engine problems.
I hope you enjoyed this small post and hope you’ll come back to learn more about our next inspection step…
The Road Test!
